<GLOSSARY OF TERMS>

Planting hosta is really very simple. If you use our 5 point program you should achieve success: 1) Dig a hole, 2) Place the roots in the hole & point the green part upwards, 3) Cover the roots over with dirt, 4) Now comes the really hard part - Sit back with a cold drink, rest awhile and admire your work. 5) This is very important: Keep hosta properly watered - you'd be surprised how many people forget about the plants after planting.

Well it really isn't quite that simple. Hosta should be planted in an area with bright light, with little or no direct sun during the hottest or middle part of the day. Dappled sunlight through trees is considered a perfect condition. Deep shade is not necessarily the best location. Your hosta will probably live for a while but might not survive long term.

When preparing the soil it is best to compost to increase the growing value of the soil. Compost makes organic soil which holds water well. Moisture is a major factor in growing beautiful, happy hosta.

Some problems hosta growers might encounter are: Disappearing Hosta - Simple answer - more than likely the plant was eaten by a rodent, such as field mice or voles. It is also possible the hosta might have developed "Crown Rot".

Hosta watering tips: Don't let your hosta dry out, especially when it's hot. Common sense in watering will help. If the plants are dry water them - if the soil is wet - don't! Hosta love water during the active growing season but not when dormant.

For best results we suggest that all bare root plants be soaked for 3 to 6 hours in luke warm water with a small amount of fertilizer to re-hydrate before planting. You may also pot them using a quality potting soil for up to 21-45 days before planting. You'll be happy with the results this extra care will provide.

Daylilies prefer full sun or at least a minimum of 6 hours of bright sun per day. Find a good sunny spot in the garden with good drainage. If soil is sandy or has clay, it is best to prepare the bedding spot with a generous helping of peat moss. The peat should be spaded into the soil and mixed thoroughly to a level of approximately six inches deep. Set the plant in place with the roots spread on all sides of the mound, at the depth at which it was originally growing. Never plant daylilies so that the crown (where foliage and roots join) is more than an inch deep. Add the soil around the roots firming it as you go. When the hole is half filled with soil, water it very well to insure good soil to root contact, and then add the remaining soil. Firm the soil again, leaving a slight depression around the plant to act as a reservoir and water thoroughly.

A sprinkling of a good balanced fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 mixed well into the soil will help in getting the planting off to a good start. A good mulch of wood chips or bark will help to preserve the moisture in the summer, as well as helping to control the weeds. For best results we suggest that all bare root plants be soaked for 3 to 6 hours in luke warm water with a small amount of fertilizer to re-hydrate before planting. Generally, any sprouted foliage will die back and the plant will send up new foliage shortly.

Japanese iris will grow successfully in ordinary garden conditions or the perennial border. They require ample moisture, especially up to bloom time. They will do very well beside a stream or a pond but in cold climates they may suffocate under ice in the winter. Good culture will increase height, branching, flower size and quantity of bloom. They will grow and bloom better if planted in full sun.

Japanese iris prefer a heavy, rich soil with ample organic matter, especially manure or peat. If the soil is clay, the addition of the organic matter will help to loosen it; if it is more sandy, the organic material will help in the retention of water and add nutrients.

Soaking the rhizomes and roots in luke warm water 3-6 hours before transplanting is beneficial. The rhizome should be planted 1 to 3 inches deep, depending on the heft of the soil. If planted in a depression of 3 to 4 inches, the depression will help to catch and hold more moisture. Since new roots form above the old roots, planting in a depression will permit the gradual filling in of more soil and compost and help to maintain the plant's vigor for a longer period of time. After planting, keep the soil moist until the plant is established. In the spring, if rainfall is not sufficient, give extra water until bloom time. The equivalent of 1" of rain per week will keep them doing well in most soils. Do not fertilize until established after a growing season. Japanese iris can be planted almost anytime from spring until fall.

Siberian iris are easy to grow, thriving in most soils in full sun or light shade. They grow best, however, in fertile, moist soils. Beds should be well prepared with organic matter as this iris will be a long-lived planting. Follow much the same directions for the Japanese Iris beds. Clumps eventually become matted and are best divided after 5 to 10 years. Divide in July or August and keep new transplants of this species fairly moist during root establishment.

Plants grow 1½ to 3 feet tall in dense compact clumps. The rhizones are small tough and fibrous, and plants root quite deeply.

PEONY CULTURE

Peony roots can be planted from late August through early April when the ground isn’t frozen. We have also been successful planting roots during the summer months with extra care given. However, the best planting time is in the fall months through November. Herbaceous peonies do best in sunny, well drained locations but they will tolerate partial shade. Too much shade will restrict their bloom quality and quantity.

Before planting, soak your newly purchased peony roots in water for six hours if they dried out during shipping. Your soil should be well tilled prior to planting. It is best to cultivate & mix compost before planting. After the soil is prepared, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the root system. The eyes should be about 2” below the soil surface. Southern gardeners should plant peonies somewhat shallower than in the North. In the South, place the eyes at ground level or at a one inch depth. Place the root in the hole & fill with soil. Tamp gently & water thoroughly.

HostaGardens peonies should not be over-fertilized. Any good, complete garden fertilizer that is not to rich in nitrogen would be fine. It should be applied when the spring foliage is about 6”-8” tall, placing it around the drip line of the leaves. Rose food & conservative applications of bone meal are especially ideal for peonies. Over fertilization may reduce flowering.

Botrytis is the most common disease problem & is most prevalent during wet seasons. Watch for young shoots that have rotted off at the base & have developed a dense gray mold early in the season. Blasted buds or blooms are also indications of infection. Careful sanitation is the most important aspect of controlling botrytis fungus. Regular inspection of the plant(s) & removal of any infected leaves is the best procedure for control. When foliage turns brown in the late fall, it can be cut back to the ground & discarded. This prevents carryover of any foliage disease spores that might be present.

We've provided basic culture & planting information for the most popular plants we sell. Should you have questions regarding other purchases from HostaGardens please feel free to email us at Amergreenhouses1@aol.com. We will attempt to answer your questions.

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